I recently rediscovered a Moroccan cookbook that I have had for a few years. Called simply, The Food of Morocco, it is of the large-format variety, often found reduced at the front of the Borders or Barnes and Noble, on the discount table for $4 or $5 dollars. These books are from British and Australian publishers, and often list ingredients under British names, with measurements listed in grams. It is not difficult, however, to decipher aubergine from eggplant, or that what we call a can of tomatoes is to them a tin. I always support precise weight measurements. There is almost always a conversion in parentheses from grams to ounces, and from Celsius to Fahrenheit.
I have found that because of these differences, and because these books are not written by famous chefs, they offer serious value to the home chef. I find my copy of Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home indispensable, but it retails at $50. They are not exemplary across the board–I bought a cocktail book that was a bit of a disappointment–but there is the potential for great finds, and they are a small financial risk.
The Food of Morocco has proven to be one of these finds. It is an interesting read, with beautiful pictures. The recipes that I have tried have been quite successful. The following recipe I have adapted with some simple changes.
Not my finest photographic effort, I had had some whiskey, and my dining companions were hungry, so I let them eat instead of reshooting.
Ingredients
Meatballs
- 1 lb. ground lamb
- 1 small onion, chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, chopped
- 2 tbs chopped flat leaf parsley
- 2 tbs chopped cilantro
- 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
- 1/2 tsp ground ginger
- 3/4 tsp ground cumin
- 3/4 tsp paprika
- 2 eggs
- 1 cup bread crumbs
- 1 tbs olive oil
Sauce
- olive oil
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, chopped
- 2 tsp ground cumin
- 1/2 tsp cinnamon
- 1 tsp paprika
- 8 plum tomatoes diced, or 1 can of 28 oz. diced tomatoes
- 2 tbs brown sugar
- 2 tsp harissa
- 4 tbs chopped cilantro
- 4 eggs
Equipment
- large bowl
- 12 inch cast iron skillet, or sautee pan with strait sides
- slotted spoon
- paper towels
- wooden spatula
1) Form the meatballs. In large bowl mix with your hands all of the ingredients, until they are fully integrated. Try to work the meat as little as possible. If the mixture is too wet, add additional bread crumbs. Form into tbs sized meatballs.
2) Brown the meatballs. Heat a healthy coating of olive oil in your skillet over high heat. Add half the meatballs, brown them all over, turning them with a slotted spoon. Remove the meatballs to the paper towels. Repeat with the rest of the meatballs and reserve.
3) Make the sauce. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the chopped onion and garlic, cooking until the onions soften. Add the cumin, cinnamon, paprika and tomatoes. Allow the tomatoes to soften and release their liquid. Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer and maintain for about 30 minutes. If the sauce threatens to stick or scorch add a little water. After simmering for 30 minutes taste the sauce to see if the tomatoes acidity has been subdued. If the sauce remains sharply acidic, continue simmering. Add the brown sugar and harissa. If you don’t like heat, add the harissa little by little, tasting as you go, so it does not become overwhelming.
4) Simmer the meatballs. Add the meatballs to the sauce and allow to simmer for ten minutes. Add the chopped cilantro and stir. Crack the eggs over the meatballs, allowing the whites to set. Garnish with additional chopped cilantro and serve.
